Difference between revisions of "Logistics and Equipment"
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For harnesses, in six past years we’ve used
For harnesses, in six past years we’ve used [http://www.camp-usa.com/products/harnesses/air-cr/ Camp AIR] harnesses because they’re the lightest things you can put on and you don’t even notice when you wear them. They’re super uncomfortable to hang in, but if you’re hanging in your harness longer than just being lowered, you’re doing it wrong.
If you’re not going to invest in a specific harness for speed/lightness, wear one geared toward comfort. Thicker/padded harnesses for long-days of climbing are much preferred. I’ve always been a fan of the
If you’re not going to invest in a specific harness for speed/lightness, wear one geared toward comfort. Thicker/padded harnesses for long-days of climbing are much preferred. I’ve always been a fan of the [https://www.petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/Harnesses/CORAX Petzl Corax], but I could even make an argument for something as heavy-hitting as a [http://blackdiamondequipment.com/fr/big-gun-harness-BD651030TGLDM__1.html Black Diamond Big Gun]. Also, if you’re wearing clothing (or lack of it) that exposes skin to the harness, you’re going to have go to with something soft on the skin. (Or suffer with chafing to the point of blood, like I did this year.)
If you take your harness off during the competition, you’re doing it wrong. If you can’t poop in your harness, you haven’t practiced enough. If you can’t wear it for 24 continuous hours, why the hell did you bring it?
If you take your harness off during the competition, you’re doing it wrong. If you can’t poop in your harness, you haven’t practiced enough. If you can’t wear it for 24 continuous hours, why the hell did you bring it?
Revision as of 23:58, 15 March 2017
- 1 Sign Up
- 2 Goals
- 3 Your Training
- 4 Your Equipment
- 5 Rope
- 6 Belay Device
- 7 Quickdraws
- 8 Protection
- 9 Shoes
- 10 Harness
- 11 Helmets
- 12 Headlamps
- 13 Visibility
- 14 Fingers
- 15 Miscellaneous
- 16 Food
- 17 Stashing
- 18 Liquids and Dihydrogen Monoxide and You
- 19 Accommodations
- 20 Clothing and Costumes
- 21 Disclaimer
- 22 Table of Contents
(Side note, DO NOT do this competition with your significant other/spouse/girlfriend/boyfriend.)
The first thing you have to do is sign up. This is accomplished in two ways: pre-registration or the lottery. Years ago, the event had empty spots and anyone could join. There was a maximum, but it would take hours to fill. My first year I don’t know if it ever filled. My second year the online signup filled in 9 hours, then 15 minutes, then 4 minutes. After that, the wise decision was made to create a lottery where people were pulled randomly from a list of entrants and let fate decide.
12? 24? 36?!
Around the same time, I suggested to Andy Chasteen that the 24-hour wasn’t long enough and we needed a 36- or 48- hour continuation of the competition. Alas, he’s smarter than I and created the 12-hour competition before the main event which is optional but can be used to gain entry for the following year’s events. This means that someone who fails to get into the lottery for the 24-hour event can do the lottery (which isn’t nearly as difficult to get into) and earn pre-registration for next year. You ARE DEFINITELY ALLOWED TO SIGN UP FOR BOTH, and THAT’s CALLED “The 36.” I don’t suggest doing it, even though I will never not do it again.
To be pre-registered means that you competed the previous year and successfully completed the minimum required for your bracket. If you’re in the 12-hour event, you need to climb a minimum of 60 routes, (of ANY difficulty) to gain reentry. If you’re in the 24-hour event, you must complete a minimum of 100 routes (of ANY difficulty) to gain reentry. If you want to do the All 5.8 and less in the North 40, more power to you. If you want to do every 5.10 you can possibly find, it’s going to suck, but good luck!
When I say any difficulty, I mean it. Even if you sign up for Elite, and your “bracket” says you climb 5.12b and up, you can still climb easier routes. People sometimes think that just because they’re in Advanced, which is 5.11a to 5.12a, that they have to climb in that range. You don’t; you can climb 5.9 to your hearts content even in the Elite bracket.
Every year you must re-qualify for pre-entry the following year. Early on in the competition the minimum for pre-qualification was only one route per hour for each hour. The scores were correspondingly lower. To allow for more entrants, the re-qualifications have been retargeted as the techniques and crowd gets better. Scores, route-counts, etc. have all increased over the years for many different reasons, and comparing scores year-to-year is effectively meaningless. Yes, during many years, new records are set, but this 11th year was brutal and everything was depressed significantly.
Now that you’ve signed up, it’s time to set your goals. People who set a goal of completion fail. People who set a goal of 150 routes typically succeed. It sounds counter-intuitive, but the biggest deciding factor of success in this competition is ambition. If you ever stop moving, you’ll stop moving permanently. If you ever take a rest, regardless of your discipline, it’ll kill your motivation and drive. I’ve gone through it. I’ve witnessed others going through it. I’ve seen people who swore left and right that their goal of 48 routes each was super ambitious and that they trained for it and were super confident…. Only to find them asleep at 4 AM on the ground because they were going TOO slowly.
Whatever goal you set, the requalification of 60/100 routes should be your minimum. Give me any single human being who has been climbing for 6-12 months and loves it, and I can get them requalified. You will surprise yourself and you can do amazing things. You will have climbers alongside you during the competition cheering you on and trying to motivate you. Ask for beta on a route and thou-shalt-receive. The stoke and psyche are high, embrace it and go for broke.
Be Better than THAT
Don’t be someone who goes for bare minimum. You’ll get in others ways and you’ll let yourself down. Don’t be afraid of the idea of doing 4-5 routes per hour each. It sounds like that’s a significant quantity of routes, and my first year I only did 80 and was super proud, but now that I’ve seen many, many, many people break into the 200+ club, regardless of their fitness level, it’s completely doable with sheer determination.
YOU CAN FUCKING DO IT, SO DO IT, AND DON’T BITCH THAT IT MIGHT BE HARD. Surprise yourself, I swear I have more confidence in your anonymous self I may never meet than you have in yourself, so go crush it. Win your division, first try, I’ve seen it done.
Great, you’re signed up. You’ve got a goal. You’re a moron. Now give up all autonomy and follow these simple steps to get your 60/100 routes. If you don’t desire to get your requalification, why are you even reading this?! But on a serious note, every single person who has ever started the competition, either one of them, has the capacity to get their 60/100 goal. Every. Single. Fucking. One. So when I turn around at the 24-hour competition and someone says their goal is only “surviving it” or “24-48 routes total” I tell them quite frankly they will fail. Good luck!
Now you need to train. Like a crazy person. My friends and I, every year, turn the 4-6 months before the competition into a mad rush of endurance cardio training. You might not be able to do what we do, but the closer you are to it the better.
How to be a better you, with pictures!
What you’re going to need is: cardio, strength, endurance, callus, hair, pain tolerance, and a destruction of your ego. Tick whatever boxes you can, and blissfully ignore any you cannot.
What I did in addition to climbing
This year, and I feel it worked out really well for me, I rode my bicycle, rock climbed, and swam a little. (I’m a former competitive swimmer, so that helps I guess; but it was in the Mediterranean, so that doesn’t, I guess.)
My bicycle riding consisted of riding the 5 km (3-miles) each way to the rock climbing gym 3-4 times per week. I would push hard and try my damnedest to go faster each and every time than I had the previous, even after workouts at the climbing gym. Traffic and weather pose problems, but they will during 24HHH too, so suck it up, learn to negotiate traffic mentally and physically, and learn to enjoy the fact that you’re outside regardless of the weather. It can snow at 24HHH, it can rain (it has!), it can cook you (it has!) or if can be perfect 75 degrees with a light breeze for the complete 24-hours (it has!). After a few months of riding my bicycle with my climbing gear on my back, my cardio was good enough. If you don’t ride, run. If you don’t run, swim. If you don’t swim, have vigorous sex. If you don’t enjoy sex, well then you’re an idiot (oh, we’re back to the prerequisite for signing up, welcome to the club!)!
How I trained climbing
For my climbing, I go to the gym and run laps. On anything. And everything. And more. My favorite is to find a nice string of routes a little harder than my warmup and climb them until failure. For me that’s roughly 5.10+. Then do it again. Then do it again. At the end I could do roughly 1000 feet without stopping where the minimum was difficulty was at my warmup level and I would finish without being pumped. Learn to breathe large breaths while climbing. Learn to flow. Learn to ignore your forearms. Learn to look like a tool with 10 quickdraws and some PAS’s hanging from your harness indoor. About once per week, go to the gym and climb for four to six hours without taking breaks longer than 1-2 minutes. About once every other week, make it a six- to eight- hour day. You’re thinking I’m crazy, but if you can’t make 6-8 hours of air conditioned indoor rock climbing, how-the-fuck do you expect to survive 12 or 24 outside?! And lastly, before your first time at hell, I suggest desperately trying for a 12- to 16-hour day of relaxed climbing just to test yourself out. Trust me, you don’t truly know yourself until hour 16.
You’re thinking by now, this guy must truly be insane. No one does what he’s suggesting! But trust me, they actually do. And if you can get to this point, in your climbing workouts, then the actual climbing part will cease to be an issue, and no matter what you actually try to do during the competition, you’ll crush the climbing part. If you do this, trust me and every other veteran, the climbing will be the easy part and then just getting the minimum becomes a test in patience and determination.
Even if you want more than the minimum, go for this pseudo-training regimen and you’ll get a leg up. Some of the veterans do it differently, but this guide isn’t for the dudes (or ladies! [Watch out for Natalie Neal Dower]) who actually know what they’re doing, it’s for the first or second timers who want a leg-up.
For any other training, It’s just fun multi-pitch days if possible, single-pitch cragging for fun, and the occasional swim session which is partly about just mixing it up. As the competition gets closer, be careful about going for hard red-point attempts because an injury just before the competition can royally fuck you. (Speaking from experience.)
Also, when is the last time you were awake for 24 full hours? My advice: stay up one Friday night for 30 hours (because of the 3 hours before the competition and the 3 hours after the competition before you get to sleep) and see how your body does. Do it with your partner, if possible? Get to see what each other is like at 4 AM. Time the wakefulness to correspond with what you’ll experience during hell. Get up at 7:30 for the 9 AM meeting, eat your breakfast and poop, then play mind games and go to the gym together etc. But don’t let each other sleep. In the wee-hours of the night, put on your headlamps and practice wearing them for 12 hours. Don’t waste batteries, just get used to them. Play games that are mind-intensive late at night and see if either of you get loopy or lose your minds. At 10 PM and then again at 4 AM do a stroke-check on each other, like in the comp. Cheer and eat breakfast around 10 AM. Then around 1 PM get some sleep again. Yes, that’s hell. And you weren’t even climbing for 24 hours! Treat it like a game, but if you are worried about any advice in this guide, YOU CAN TEST IT BEFORE THE COMPETITION STARTS.
I’ll admit that one year, my anonymous Danny partner, was stuck in the middle of a 5.7 on the North Forty, Mr. Dixon, and spent 20 minutes trying to figure out the beta while in a no-hands rest all confused asking me what to do. *Cough Danny Cough* Basically, at 4 AM his mind shut off and it took him 20 minutes to do his lap, 30 seconds for mine (it’s a 3-bolt route with jugs), then another 20 minutes for his because he forgot his beta from literally one minute beforehand and was confused again. Yes, I let this man belay me. Yes, I still love you Danny. (He went on in later years to crush harder, and even in this particular year he did more than 100 routes when the minimum for re-entry was still 24 and 100 was uncommon.) (He did win best haircut because of the handprint on his head! And Thomas Caldwell, gentleman extraordinaire, offered to let us wipe our feet on his bare thighs, but that’s an entirely different but true story.)
Moral of the story, know yourself and your partner and what you will be like 16-20 hours into the comp. If you can’t survive 16-20 hours fooling around outside climbing, while only eating and drinking what you’re going to during the competition, how do you expect to survive together during the actual hell?
Okay, so now you’re shredding shit harder than you ever have before because you decided to actually do some climbing. Great! Now you need the gear. Here’s a photo of gear we own which you should also have.
Just kidding. Well, we each own this, but don’t bring it. Here is the complete minimum list of all climbing gear that you need to complete 24HHH, including traditional protection:
- 5 quickdraws (okay, maybe 6 in case you drop/lose/break one)
- 35-meter rope
- Locking Carabiner with inbuilt cross loading prevention (Via Ferrata style is fantastic!!!!!)
- Black Diamond #.75 Camalot (Green) or .75 Link Cam (Green)
- 60mm sling
- ATC-XP belay device with auto-locking carabiner
- Enough tape to both become Egyptian mummies permanently
You’re thinking I’m joking. I’m not. If you want to take and utilize more, good on you. I won’t stop you, but it’s going to be excessive. Here’s a picture of the gear we actually carried with us during the comp. (Notice the blue tape on the link cams and the white tape on the quickdraws for later. We never even placed the purple link cam, though.)
If you’re reading this, I’m going to assume you’re looking at doing a bunch of routes, and you’re probably going to skip the obvious ones that everyone skips. That means the longest climbs you’re going to do require a 35m rope. Buy a 70m by 9.2mm rope and cut it in half, or a 35m by 9.2mm one you don’t need to cut. Expect your rope will die by the end of the competition. If you’ve cut your 70m in half, you can leave the other half down in your car in case your side dies then you have a backup. Don’t underestimate backups upon backups upon backups! Thickness of the rope matters. It’s going to get thicker as the competition continues. Get the smoothest feeding and easiest rope for handling. It’s going to get thicker, it’s going to get dirty, it’s going to get gnarly. You aren’t going to be taking whippers on these ropes, so thickness only serves to make it HEAVIER and HARDER TO CLIP. Do yourself a favor, get a rope that is shoestring thin which can feed through an ATC fast and use it. (Even 9.4 ends up becoming too thick and less than 9.0 doesn’t bind properly in an ATC.)
Doing 100 routes at 24HHH is typically just shy of 1 vertical mile. If you and your partner both do it, that’s 2 vertical miles the rope is being clipped, and 2 more vertical miles (minimum) that it’s being pulled back through. That means your rope will experience roughly 200 pitches (each 100’ long) worth of dragging across rock. You seriously want to tell me that you expect your rope to genuinely be usable after that much usage? Come again, I can’t hear you, speak louder. How many of your ropes would you like to go climbing with knowing they already had 200 pitches of previous use, and you can visibly see the sheath separating from the core and turning fuzzy. Our 9.2mm rope this year ended up at 11.3mm in thickness, too. I’m not joking, it became hard to pull through the ATC and almost impossible to pull through a GriGri.
Using old ropes
My ex-girlfriend took a used rope one year, and 3 hours in it became unusable because it had seen some use previously. They barely got their 100 routes each that year, and the rope only survived the first 20 that each of them did.
Buy a new one
Trust me, it’s going be painful, but buy a rope specifically for this. You’ll love yourself for it later. If you bring a 60m, it’s going to be far too much rope and slow you down drastically. If you bring a 70m rope, you’re insane. Anything longer and you’ll be laughed at.
Also, there’s these things called rope-bags; leave it at home. In past years we’ve tried to maintain tarps, rope bags, blue IKEA bags, and laundry baskets. They only slow you down. The rope is designed to take a bit of abuse, and as long as you aren’t walking on it, and no one else does, it’ll survive touching the ground. The one exception to this rule is the year it torrentially rained, but even then it’s impossible to actually keep the rope clean. The simplest of the solutions is to get a 10’x10’ section of tarp and cut it into a 5’x5’ square and just let the rope drop onto that. Then you just pick up the corners and move on. But, of course, all of this is mitigated by having that 35m rope, because a 35m rope can be managed very easily with just your hands. Especially if you two work together to make it go faster. If you ever need to coil, both of you should be doing it and carry the piece you have at the end. Either way, they take longer to manage and will slow you, and by extension others, down. In the photo below, the rope is dirty, but survived 36 hours of direct ground contact and more than 650 total routes.
Another really strange phenomenon I witnessed this year is each climber having their own rope permanently attached to them, and a personal rope bag of varying types for each climber. I’m speechless, that’s heavy and pointless. You quite literally don’t save any time vs our method, and only add the possibility of tangled ropes because you should be going fast enough that one would be climbing while the other is pulling THEIR OTHER rope down. Basically, read the next paragraph and go faster and lighter and smarter. Yes, I’ll admit this works, and it might be faster than a 60m rope. It’s definitely faster than retying each iteration. It’s unfathomably less favorable to having a single end you each switch off as necessary.
What you should actually be doing
The other thing you’re going to be doing is taking that non-cross loading carabiner mentioned earlier and tying the end of the rope to it. Before the competition starts. Congratulations you’re not going to have to tie a knot for the entire competition! 100 routes, 2 times each, tie and untie means 400 knot tie/untie actions, running at 30 seconds each, that’s 3 hours 2 minutes of knot tying. Thanks for wasting 1/8th of your competition standing around not competing! (This, coupled with shoes, ends up being 25% of your entire competition (SIX HOURS), if you’re stupid.) If you think you can tie your knot faster than 30 seconds each time, and untie it faster than 30 seconds each time, then I’d like you to demonstrate that to me at hour 20 of the competition when you can’t feel your fingers and you’re having difficulty climbing 5.6.
More on why the short rope is better later in this treatise, outside the obvious amount of usage. We used one half of the rope each during each competition. One half was used in the 12 hour, and the other half was used in the 24 hour. Here’s a photo of our two halves of the rope after 36 hours of stupidity (they started out bright reflective lime green).
This suggestion is going to draw ire no matter how I state it, so I’ll just preface it upfront and say that if you want to argue with me, and won’t listen to my advice, then skip this.
I’ve used ATC’s, ATC-XP/Guides, Petzl GriGri’s, and the Micro Jule thingy. I’ve had partners in the past use these and others such as the Cinch. This last comp, the fastest we’ve gone is with a normal ATC with teeth. Let me explain why.
The safest device you’re going to use is auto-locking. If you’re remotely worried about fatigue affecting your belay technique, and want something to do your job for you because you’re too novice for belaying to be second-nature/muscle-memory, then get a GriGri 2 and read the next section. For the love of all that is holy, find a way to make belaying second-nature and require ZERO thought.
If you want a device that will twist your rope, get a Micro Jule. It doesn’t like thin ropes or being fed from certain angles, run away from it because of this! (When going fast, it’s a bitch; when taking your time, it’s actually quite lovely.)
If you want to go fast, and I mean unbeatably fast, get an ATC-XP. The kind with the teeth on one side of the device. This device is impossible to beat in terms of belay-disconnection. For reasons I’ll explain in the “During the Comp” section, this is the fastest device. Also, you should be doing your job as a belayer; anyone entering hell should be able to belay with 2-5 different belay devices on a moment’s notice without having to think about it, and be able to do it blackout drunk, at night, blindfolded, and while being attacked by ants/goats/skunks/hornets/all of the above (all of these exist during hell). Forgive the superfluous night/blindfolded, you get the idea.
In the end, you should also take a backup device. You might drop yours. You might get loopy at 4 AM and lose yours. You might break it. Last year my partner and I each had an ATC-XP for our primary devices, and I brought along an extra ATC and GriGri 2 as backups. The ATC does have the drawback that your hands are slightly more engaged, but if you do it right it actually doesn’t grind on your skin any. Learn how in advance. But if your skin does get fried, and it will eventually no matter who you are, then using something like a GriGri 2 can save your fingers more, but it’s VASTLY slower.
Also, you should tape the gate to your belay carabiner so that it’s easier to open on your fingers. The little metal nubs which give it traction start to HURT to touch during the comp. And it should be an auto-twist-locker, not a screw-gate locker, because speed and simplicity. Don’t argue with that, just do it. C’mon baby, just the tip, nice and smooth. Just go with it.
You should be skipping first bolts. You should be skipping last bolts. If you aren’t, why not? If you’re that afraid of falling in places where the bolts won’t actually protect you, why are you on that route in the first place in a competition that requires clean red-points?
With that simple paragraph, 5 or 6 quickdraws can be enough for the competition. We took 10 of the lightest ones available made by Petzl, that way we wouldn’t have to ever worry about if we had enough when we left the ground.
The other feature about the quickdraws which can make-or-break your competition is the gates. You want large gates for the carabiners you clip the rope into, to make it easier to clip the rope to, obviously. Small details like that are useful. But the real killer is the gate for the side touching the bolt. You want gates that don’t have a notch so that the carabiner NEVER GETS HUNG UP ON CLEANING. You should be able to open the gate and just twist it out, even under pressure. This is the difference between 1 second per draw and 10 seconds per draw.
GET THESE: Petzl Ange Finesse (If you save time un-clipping, I save time not waiting for you.)
Let’s do some quick math. You want 50 unique Routes each. Each route is 5 draws (See Above) (I really hope not) (Please don’t clip this much) (Be safe!). That’s 250 bolts you’re clipping and 250 bolts you’re cleaning. If you’re going to clean 250 bolts and each takes 5 seconds because they have a notch, vs 1 second which don’t, that’s 4 x 250 seconds of wasted time, or roughly 15-20 MORE minutes of your competition is spent cleaning draws than necessary. And that’s conservative. Want 200 routes? That’s just become closer to 30-40 minutes. And this is assuming you can get it off in a very fast 5 seconds each time.
Now let’s look at if you skip more bolts. Instead of spending the 10 seconds to clip each send, and then the 10 seconds it takes to put it on the wall and take it off, each bolt ends up costing you 50 seconds. (Placement/cleaning + 4 clips during sends). This means in your 250 bolts from above you’re taking 250 * 50 seconds, or 3.5 hours just clipping bolts. Yes, you read that right, a conservative 5-bolts per route means you’re doing nothing but placing, clipping, and cleaning draws for 3.5 hours of your competition. That’s 1/8th of the competition wasted standing there burning energy on something you could probably skip anyway.
So then you hear about us, we were “Those Guys”. We typically skipped all but 1-2 bolts per route, which gives us less than 40 minutes combined for the entire competition spent clipping. Who gets more routes in, the guys with 0.66 of an hour clipping or the guys spending 3.5 hours clipping? Don’t do this. Ever. It’s stupid and crazy and dangerous beyond all belief. But now you understand WHY we do it. It quite literally can save 1/8th of the competition for more climbing/eating/drinking/pooping/etc. (I prefer to spend it staring at the beautiful climber ladies.)
Here’s how my partner, Austin Howell, rationalized our clipping strategy:
"In terms of clipping, think of it like you're on multi-pitch. You run it out like a bastard on some moderate climbing, then as soon as you find a crux a bolt suddenly appears in front of your face. There's no difference here except that the wall is 15 meters instead of 150 meters. Except there is one difference: you can't survive a 30-meter fall on a 15-meter wall."
Here’s a picture of the only traditional protection we actually placed for the entire competition with 42 traditional routes each in the 12 and 48 traditional routes each in the 24. Have a nice day. (Note the tape on the carabiners for later.)
The other point worth making is that the rules don’t mention the QUALITY the placement needs to be. That would be impractical and impossible to guarantee a minimum, because you can’t truly verify good placements. This means, when we sling a chicken-head, we go quick-and-fast and don’t expect it to catch a fall. When we place a cam, we place it so it’s super easy to clean. Clean it every time for the redpoint (instead of pinkpoint), it’s not going to hold anyway. Bonus Points if your belayer can knock the piece loose when lowering you to speed up the process.
Morons wear flip-flops/sandals to HCR during 24HHH. And not the good kind like the kind who read this... The actual morons. Maybe I need better terminology so you can tell when I’m not being sarcastic. I advocate for a new emoji for this, any suggestions?
Okay, now that I’ve gotten past that, let’s talk about footwear. You’re going to wear shoes you ideally don’t ever take off. Ever. Even to walk to the next climb. Even to relax and stretch out your toes. If you can’t survive 4 hours in the gym without adjusting them, you’re not going to finish 24HHH. If you’re going to toss in the occasional 5.12, practice them in relaxed shoes, HCR is fortune in that you can get away with that quite a bit. If you’re a stone-cold-rock-crusher, ignore my advice and stop reading this guide because you know more than I do anyway.
But literally, shoes that have worked wonders in the past for myself, my partners, and my friends (I’ve tried the majority of these)
- La Sportiva Mythos (crowd favorite)
- La Sportiva TC Pro (my new favorite, indescribably good)
- 5.10 Spire (my first three years)
Terrible Shoes I’ve worn:
- 5.10 Newton (Gave me peripheral neuropathy in my toes because they don’t breathe adequately)
- La Sportiva Nago (RUN AWAY THEY ARE TERRIBLE FOR THIS!)
Occasionally I’ll see a relaxed La Sportiva Miura shoes as well, but they end up hurting everyone that tries. If you really feel there’s a single problem that needs a shoe for a very specific purpose, then you’re doing your first year of hell wrong.
It’s extremely common for people to also climb a large portion of the competition in their approach shoes. In past years I’ve used my 5.10 Guide Tennies and I’ve seen others rave over using the Scarpa Cruxes or Evolv Cruzer ones. It works if you’re climbing super easy stuff and they have climbing rubber, but in the last few years, I’ve noticed that having that extra edging power is really useful for going faster and not getting as tired from the actual act of rock climbing.
If you’re not wearing relaxed climbing-specific shoes, then you’re wearing approach shoes. If you bring regular climbing shoes and they hurt too much, you’re going to need a backup, and those should be some APPROACH SHOES. I routinely see people walking around in flip-flops with gnarly feet having difficulty continuing after 10-14 hours of the competition wishing they had some relaxed shoes to put on, and they’re only halfway through!
I can’t stress enough, that footwear will make or break your comp. Bring relaxed shoes you’ve climbed in before, and which you know you can wear for a continuous 8-16 hours without issue. Anything else and you won’t even finish the competition because you’ll be in so much pain. Also, if you’ve got those sandals/flip-flips/Chacos/fad hipster shoes on, then when your feet inevitably hurt and you want to switch out of your climbing shoes, you’re fucked because you didn’t listen to ANY of this foot advice and can’t even climb in the should-have-been-worn approach shoes. This year alone, there were 3 teams I recall which all verbally told us they wished they’d brought approach shoes to change into, had decided against it, and regretted the decision.
For speed, you’re not taking shoes off between climbs. The point of a race is speed right? If you climb 100 routes each, that’s 400 times someone is fucking with their shoes for 30 seconds before and after their climb, that adds up to 12,000 seconds, or roughly 3 hours and 20 minutes of doing nothing but putting shoes on and taking them off. You want to spend more than 1/8th of your race on something which everyone else doesn’t even bother with?!
Like with what I stated about rope before, if you feel you can put them on/take them off faster than 30 seconds each time (don’t forget your other footwear will be involved too), then please demonstrate how those non-comfortable shoes slide effortlessly onto your feet 20 hours into the competition when you don’t want to put your fingers into the loops and you can barely pull with your biceps anymore.
For harnesses, in six past years we’ve used Camp AIR harnesses because they’re the lightest things you can put on and you don’t even notice when you wear them. They’re super uncomfortable to hang in, but if you’re hanging in your harness longer than just being lowered, you’re doing it wrong.
If you’re not going to invest in a specific harness for speed/lightness, wear one geared toward comfort. Thicker/padded harnesses for long-days of climbing are much preferred. I’ve always been a fan of the Petzl Corax, but I could even make an argument for something as heavy-hitting as a Black Diamond Big Gun. Also, if you’re wearing clothing (or lack of it) that exposes skin to the harness, you’re going to have go to with something soft on the skin. (Or suffer with chafing to the point of blood, like I did this year.)
If you take your harness off during the competition, you’re doing it wrong. If you can’t poop in your harness, you haven’t practiced enough. If you can’t wear it for 24 continuous hours, why the hell did you bring it?
I swear by the [Black Diamond helmets] because they can easily fit anyone and I even wore them one year for the entire 24-hours of the competition. We tried to make a time lapse of each of us by wearing GoPro cameras taking pictures every 5 seconds for the entire competition. Take it from me, the GoPro Hero 3 Black Editions are incapable of taking head-mounted shots that long, and 21-hours in they BOTH died simultaneously and neither would turn on anymore.
However, from a safety perspective, wearing helmets is a really, really, really, really good idea when climbing, especially during 24HHH. We end up eschewing them because we’re complete and utter morons, but people are constantly pulling rocks and ropes and quickdraws down onto you, so wearing one could possibly save your noggin.
It’s also worth mentioning that we do wear them for the entire night time. Don’t underestimate how much more comfortable a headlamp is when it’s sitting on a helmet on your head instead of directly on your skin. The timing of the competition means that sundown to sunrise is almost exactly 12 hours, so you’ll be wearing it for a long time.
Lastly, and it shouldn’t need to be said, but adjust the living daylights out of it before the competition starts. I’d even suggest wearing it around the house or to the local gym/crag and see if you can forget you even have it on your head. If you succeed at that, add the headlamp to it and reproduce. For us, we get to the point we forget we’re night climbing wearing a helmet and lamp, because it’s so comfortable and balanced.
In the past
This is a really important piece of gear. Bringing the wrong headlamp can be crippling. In some of my earlier years we used [Black Diamond Storms], (running around 120 Lumens), but the batteries would have to be replaced in the middle of the night to survive the duration. They work and are cheaper, but far from the ideal solution.
Now we use more powerful [Black Diamond lamps with the battery-pack in the back]. I find it really balances out the weight of the headlamp on your head over the 12-hours of night time. The great thing about lamps like these is that they last 24-48 hours on maximum brightness without dimming. Guaranteed not to have to replace the batteries mid-comp. Also, see the section on Helmets, and you’ll understand even better how these lamps coupled with a great helmet can make the night-climbing great.
As for the brightness, if you have less than 200 lumens, you’re doing it wrong. You’re going to want enough light to see literally everything around you while you’re climbing, but you ALSO going to want enough light that when you’re standing on the ground beneath your climber, you can illuminate THEIR climbing. Don’t underestimate how useful it is to have an upward-shining light showing you where the feet are. It’s difficult to see feet at night, and it’s almost entirely remedied by a light coming up at the wall from your belayer.
One tactic which is popular is to turn off one’s headlamp when belaying. This saves battery, sure, but it doesn’t provide the direct benefit previously described. It’s sometimes fun to stand there in complete darkness belaying your partner who you can’t really even see… But this is a race so help each other out and shine some damn light!
Who doesn’t like to glow like a Christmas tree when they run around rock climbing at night?! I KNOW I DO.
What not to do
So this is the real run down. In years past we tried military-issue glow sticks that all died 8 hours into the competition. Smaller ones might vary. People love to stick them on their quickdraws. You can put glow stick loops through the loops of the draw. You can hang them from the bolt-end of the draw and they hang next to the dog bone. You can hang them from harness. You can break them open and pour them in your mouth and turn into a permanently immobile zombie. These are all really awesome and fun to do, and it certainly makes finding your shit a lot easier in the dark.
What smart people do
But here’s the real beta which only we have used and which everyone else gives us compliments for: avoid the stick cracking weight-adding deathtubes and get some [reflective tape]. Go to Home Depot (or equivalent) and find some reflective stick-on tape and put it on your shit instead. Reflective tape reflects 70-99% of incoming light back where it comes from, so when you point at your draws in the dark with your headlamp, they GLOW. And when I say glow, I mean they light up like a lighthouse beacon at more than 100 meters. You can tape your carabiners. You can tape your belay devices. You can tape your guidebook in interesting ways. You can tape your skin. You can tape your helmet (you’ve got one right?). You can tape your shoes and your genitals. Basically, put it on everything that isn’t cloth, because who knows what that adhesive does to nylon!
What I do
But wait, HERES THE EVEN BETTER GOODS…. Tape the shit out of the dog bone on your quickdraws! “But I thought you just said it might eat the shit out of your nylon dog bones?!” Well obviously, but if you haven’t realized by now there’s a solution to everything. Basically, just toss some plastic wrap over the dog bone first and you’re set. Then the tape can slide up/down the dog bone and flex, and it won’t eat it apart! Genius! Goddamn I wish some intelligent gear company out there would realize that reflective paint and tape would make night climbing so much easier on their gear. Like, on everything.
The reflective tape is kind of expensive, but it’s worth it. And you can leave it on year round! (Mine has survived 3x24 and 2x12 hells.) And, nothing beats looking up at a blank wall in the middle of the night and seeing blindingly-bright shining beacons for the bolt line you need to climb. You can’t even miss the draws because they shine in the corner of your eye, and the tape won’t fall of as readily as a glow stick.
Bring a ton of tape. Tape and tape and tape. Extra tape for yourself. Extra tape because your partner is a moron who signed up for this…. Wait, I mean because they’re a moron because they forgot theirs.
You’re going to need to protect your skin. The more novice you are, the more you need to protect it. I now can make around 300 total routes before my fingers get too gnarly. In the first year that I broke 100, I was much more novice but my fingers were more trashed at the end. The only difference is how I climb. This part should probably go into the training part, but it’s more relevant here because I say so. Basically, when you’re climbing, don’t touch holds more than once. If it’s good enough, use it and move on. If it’s shitty but it’ll work, the sacrifice in possible pump is worth more than the micro-abrasions you get from testing multiple holds or constantly having to adjust to find the better spots.
For those micro-abrasions, let’s assume you’re climbing 100 routes total. There are 20-50 hand moves per route. That’s 2,000 to 5,000 holds you’re guaranteed to need minimum. If you spend every hand movement finding a hold and it takes 2-3 attempts, you’re up to 4,000 to 15,000 hand touches. If you find the right one then adjust twice to find the best way to hold it, that’s now 8,000 to 30,000 hand touches. That sounds like a lot already, but now imagine lightly grazing your hand on a piece of fine-grit sandpaper that many times and you’ll realize how important it is to NOT feel around. The idea of me touching a piece of sandpaper, no matter how lightly, for only 5,000 times seems like insanity. And the reason I say sandpaper is because you’re going to be climbing on sandstone…. You knew that right? It’s going to tear you up over time. This has the added side effect that if you just grab and go (you’re on 5.9’s!) then you’ll end up climbing two to six times faster too. OMG SAVING TIME. And keep in mind those 8,000 to 30,000 touches take 1 second each. That’s 3-hours minimum feeling around for holds. 1/8th of your comp! CONSERVATIVELY!
Gloves, I presume?
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold still had their tips working at the end and they were doing things which truly needed their tips. You’re climbing jug-hauls the entire time so you can even get away with things like belay gloves. Some people like belay gloves. Or fingertip-less gloves for climbing in. I haven’t tried either, but it does seem to work for some.
In the end, I tape the first two knuckles of all of my fingers. The pinky usually fails first, and the rest last a few hours. If you tape right, you can absolutely protect the majority of your fingers from crazy abrasion on most holds. I’ve attached pictures of my hands after 36 hours so you can see where the tape was and what the damage looked like. You want to tape in a crossing pattern where the tape in front of your knuckle saves the skin. Many people make the tactical mistake of only taping each individual part of their finger and not joining between the fingers. That won’t save you.
One thing he didn’t do in the photo above, even though the technique is absolutely correct, is that I tape as close to my palm as I can to protect the soft skin at the base of the finger, and go almost up onto the tip in the front to protect it as much as possible. But don’t deviate from this guide much.
Basically, once you’re taped, you want to grab the jugs so that the edges of the hold are in the middle of the tape between your knuckles. Then you can literally let go of the hold and your weight will make the tape stick to the rock and hold your hand in place for you (NO PUMP!). That also has the added benefit that you won’t be tearing down your skin because the tape is taking all of the abuse!
EVEN MORE: When you’re belaying with your ATC (because you’re using one right?), you can also run the rope along the taped-inside-knuckle and then you can’t even feel it and it breaks easily for you and it saves you. Tape is expendable, skin isn’t.
When to Tape
I think I ended up taping my fingers a total of once before the competition started and another 2 times during the 24. My partner did it one more time than that and included perpendicular tape that wrapped around his tips to save them too (out of necessity). If you look carefully at the photos, the whiter parts of my fingers on the fronts is the normal color of my hands. The reason everything else is darker isn’t because they’re dirty, it’s red because they have no top layers of skin left anymore. If your fingers look worse than this, then you’re an idiot. We did 300+ routes each in 36-hour, and our hands weren’t as gnarly as yours probably will after 100. Climb smarter!
Bring super glue. Many people love to super glue their fingers for an added layer. I’ve never done it, but some people swear by it. I’ve seen people tape after glue. I’ve seen people glue the tape on. I’ve seen people gluing their eyes open. I’ve seen people sniffing the glue. Basically, it’s a life-saver. Especially if you get a wicked cut, throw that in there and keep going. (You wouldn’t give up because of some sissy flesh wound with arterial spray, would you?) (Did you catch the line about gluing your eyes open?) Well, cyanoacrylate is something many veterans swear by year after year, so feel free to use it.
As with anything, test out ALL of these at the crag or gym near you, beforehand, obviously. The fun part of course is super gluing, putting on belay gloves, taping over them, then super gluing it all to your hands again for longevity. I think it’s happened before and worked wonders. Now go test that before you come. Remember, the most important tips are always at the end of the section, right?
Bring an extra bail carabiner for each of you. Large non-locker, preferably. If you ever get stuck on a route and need to bail, toss that on and leave. Maybe someone else can clean it for you after. If you get to a set of anchors and they don’t have a carabiner to lower off, add yours and lower. Basically, be ready to sacrifice it for speed. Don’t spend time cleaning routes, everyone behind you in line will hate you.
Heck, bring a few you’d be comfortable leaving behind permanently, and toss them onto the routes when the ones at the top get screwed up. You might, quite literally, save lives, including your own life. Here’s a photo of a couple of carabiners which were retrieved at 24HHH after the 12 and 24. This will be a common sight at the top of ALL of the popular routes, and even many of the seldom trodden ones. If you look at the bottom of these carabiners, they are all well into the range where they could snap from body-weight hanging. The middle one, based on its shine, was brand new less than 48 hours before this photo was taken. One (rule-of-thumb) way to tell if the carabiner is ridiculously compromised is to see that the wear mark is to the thickest part of the spine.
DO NOT BRING BELAY GLASSES. Just don’t look up. If you need to look at your partner while they’re climbing, you’re not on the type of routes a first-timer should be on. Personally, I’ve never had any issues with my neck from looking up, I just don’t think about it. I look up when important and just stare at sexy ladies (men?) climbing around me in their gods-gift-to-mankind yoga pants/tights.
Sunblock? I’ve never used nor had issues. Maybe your skin will be more sensitive, but there’s tons of shade around the walls. The ranch has done a great job of ensuring the tree coverage near the walls hasn’t been obliterated.
Stick Clips…. Are you fucking kidding me? If you’re getting on any climb where you aren’t 150% sure you’re going to get to the top first time, every time, you’re slowing everyone else down. Do everyone else a favor and leave it at home and be more conservative in your route selections. If you still feel like you need it, why are you even in this sport?! And why the heck did you sign up for this comp? Sorry to be harsh, but considering the level of stupidity it takes to sign up to do this in the first place, you take it to a whole new level of complete and utter mindlessness.
Your cellphone. Use the Horseshoe Hell App. It works great, and my former partner Luke Stuff deserves love for his effort in creating it. I’ve used it every year it’s been available and it works great. Bring the printed ones just in case, but the phone-app works great. Oh, and it is worth mentioning that I didn’t have any cell reception at all for the entire week (I have T-Mobile), but there are ways to submit it at the end over the Wi-Fi which they open specifically for score submissions.
Bring lawn chairs. For the Reel Rock showing and the award ceremony (but don’t lug those bitches around the comp, that would be masochistic).
Food is where people vary most wildly… good luck! End of Section.
Just kidding. This picture is everything we took for the full 36-hours. (Except another 8 gallons of water.)
What not to do
First year we tried a marathoner’s diet: Gu’s, Clif Bars, and not much else. It was a huge disaster and we barely survived the competition. Our 80 routes each that year wouldn’t even qualify us for re-entry anymore.
What seemed to work, kinda
The next three years I went a mostly healthy route of PB&J with some fruits and granola, but it wasn’t nearly enough variety and it wasn’t what my mind wanted. It will sustain you, but one year I even got food poisoning because the apple-pear thing I ate was bad. Climbing Lavender Eye twice while effectively vomiting is some of the hardest climbing I’ve ever done in my entire life.
Pragmatism and Success and You
The last three years I went much more pragmatic. I realized that the calories I take in don’t matter as long as I get enough. I realized I could get a little substance from the PB&J’s, but I usually end up eating only a single one for satiety. What I really want is HAPPY FOOD. Comfort food is not to be underestimated. As long as you get the calories you need, screw efficiency, go for food that makes you happy. If you can do cold pizza, bring it! If you can do day-old Rice-a-Roni, HELL YEAH.
Personally, the last three years I brought: 2 PB&J sandwiches, Twizzler Bites, raisins, Skittles, Oreos, Pringles, Goldfish and pretzels. Between the sugar to make me happy, salty foods to satisfy salt/electrolyte cravings, and the PB&J’s to make me feel like I actually ate something of substance, I’ve survived really well these last few years.
Basically, when planning for this, pretend you’re a pregnant woman with cravings which you can’t predict and try to bring a lot of little things which can satisfy those cravings. Variety trumps efficiency. Also, share with your partner. There’s no room in this competition to worry about “your food” or “my food”. If you have something the other looks at and craves, share that shit! Heck, share with anyone around you too! I love handing out a handful of Skittles (I brought 3 lbs. of Skittles alone this year) or Oreos to other climbers, because I like putting the rainbow in their mouth. (We are “Those Guys” after all…)
Last point worth noting, whatever you choose to do, you need to be sure you actually can do it. Before arrival, and during your above test for alertness previously mentioned, eat only the food you’re going to eat during hell. If you get strange cravings or can’t do it, then you know you need to modify your plan. Basically, the food/liquids/sleep should all be tested thoroughly before arrival, and the food is the hardest to get right.
Also, every single person that does hell does get strange sickness feelings during the comp. It’s natural. I’ve yet to see anyone finish the competition who could say they were climbing well and didn’t have some body weirdness during the comp. It’s not your actual stomach (autonomous nervous system), it’s your body complaining it’s not asleep.
Sustainability and Murder
On a tangentially related note, there’s a huge sustainability initiative. This is private land granted to us for this purpose by his holy lordship Barry Johnson, and we need to keep his property in pristine condition. There are no trash cans on the premise of HCR for you to use, so anything you bring to the ranch will have to leave with you too. Don’t bring paper plates and red solo cups (you’re getting a badass metal one!). Remove any pre-packaged food you have and condense it into easier-to-carry containers. Don’t bring a TIN of tuna, bring a small baggy that you can ball up and put in the bottom of your pack. It’s lighter too. And I’ve also been told that the goat dogs they have which protect the goats are trained to attack and maim anyone who drops anything on the ground and walks away from it. Luckily during the competition, they can’t tell as easily when you leave your bag a few routes back, but if you’re the last person leaving an area and there’s stuff on the ground, yours or otherwise, you might get a nice bite around your neck and permanent life-loss for being a douchebag and not picking it up.
A word from the wise
Here’s a beautiful and direct unedited quote from my partner, Austin Howell, regarding his food:
"It seems with ingestion you need: Water, calories, electrolyte, satiety, caffeine, cravings, and something that you can eat no matter how fucking awful you feel
This year I tried the Gu Roctane "Summit Tea" which had water, calories, electrolyte, and caffeine as an all-in-one. The problem came after about 14 hours when my rebelled and the shit-storm began. Mark is screaming beta while I sat still, and I replied ‘I FUCKING CAN'T!’ He obeyed our pre-agreed upon strategy and he called me a ‘fucking loser bitch ass pansy’ and told me to get moving before he cut the rope and left me there, I informed him that I couldn't move because I was ‘pinching one off’ and we had a moment of silence for the first time in two days. My stomach had a weirdness I couldn't explain (which is normal for hell), and I was incapable of ingesting anything until a random passerby gave me a gummy snack which tasted like sweet mana from heaven and restored my will to live.
Next year I plan to separate my categories as much as possible, and have an energy drink with no caffeine. That way I can get my calories, water, and electrolyte without increasing an urgent need to shit my pants. We don't need to boogie till we poop at hell. Meanwhile, I'll have a mix of gummy snacks both with and without caffeine that way I can regulate my intake of stimulant and I'll have something on hand I can eat no matter how shitty I feel. (Pun not intended, but thoroughly appreciated) Think of it like layering for weather instead of having one badass thick waterproof jacket that gets too hot at noon leaving you confused as to how you're sweating your ass off in a Minnesota winter.And I figure pooping problems are part of any reasonable sustainability initiative... so hammering the point home helps."
To comment on what you just read, I was actually laughing my ass off the entire time he stood there (upwards of 60 seconds mid-route), but for him time and space were standing still and all noise was drowned out by his bowels raging.
This section is really only for the people who are doing the 24 or the 36. If you’re only doing the 12, stashing isn’t necessary nor important for you. I don’t know of a single team who did or would stash for only the 12-hour competition.
The best idea ever
So here’s something which is mentioned in other beta guides, and which has become a mainstay of the competition. If you aren’t aware of it, then I’m glad you’re reading this! Before the competition, go to the army/navy surplus store and buy some plastic sandbags of the 24”x18” variety. They’re usually less than $1 each and store a ton of stuff. They’re waterproof and bulletproof.
How to do the best idea ever
What you’re going to do is place some water, some electrolytes, and some non-perishable snacks into here. No fruits or anything that attracts bugs though. You place these before the competition to make your life easier later. Basically, you can take up one third of your stuff to the wall before the competition even starts and be ready. Obviously, don’t stash 100% of your stuff because it might disappear, get eaten by goats or bears, or be in the wrong place to get access to it. You just want to bring this as reserves for yourself or others should you run out or have issues. Backups on Backups. This is the Backup for food/water usage.
How to save yourself if you can't do the best idea ever
This year we couldn’t get sandbags in time, so we went with a more expensive option and acquired a bright orange painter’s bucket from the Home Depot and used that. It worked because it was airtight, but it was annoying to carry and didn’t blend into our hiding place the way sandbags would.
How to do the best idea ever, but properly
Ironically, however, though you are “stashing food” you need to ensure it is visible and identifiable. Get a sharpie and write your name all over it, along with something humorous and encouraging for yourself later. And remember that awesome reflective tape I mentioned before? COVER THAT BIATCH! It’s indescribably amazing when you’re looking for your stash at 3 AM and can’t seem to find it, because it’ll shine back brightly at you out of the corner of your eye. If you don’t mark it up, I’ve heard other climbers assume it’s community and might raid your stash. So, put your name on it!
How to do the best idea ever without fucking the ranch
And after the comp, go retrieve ALL of it. Obviously. If you leave it behind, you WILL get banned permanently from the ranch and risk getting the competition canceled in the future, too. Don’t be that guy; I will hunt you down and do things which would be illegal if I get caught.
Liquids and Dihydrogen Monoxide and You
This year it was in the nineties and deadly. We drank 2 gallons each during the 12-hour competition, and another 3-4 gallons each during the 24-hour competition. This year we dragged around gallons bought from the store of filtered water instead of bladder(s). My 3 liter would have been woefully inadequate. Other years, I’ve gotten away with just a 3L and a few Gatorades.
How much should you bring?
My advice is to bring double to triple what you think you need. Better to have extra and not use it than be caught without. While it’s true that the different volunteers tend to bring up water and/or Scratch Labs from time to time, it’s also just as true that they RUN THE FUCK OUT, EVERY YEAR. When the competition is over, you can always just pour it out and walk away. Never rely on the water they bring, it’s a recipe for disaster and contrary to the spirit of the comp. Let the staff, volunteers, and spectators drink the water which the staff brought up for the staff, volunteers, and spectators. (Remember what I said about community? Don’t be a douche.)
For my Gatorade selection, I try to get multiple flavors to change it up. And I buy the 1L bottles as a minimum size. I’ve also seen people throw Gatorade powder into their water bottles, or using other similar things.
This year my partner tried this Gu Super-Retard Tea they’re in the photo above which apparently had thousands of calories mixed into it. It looked like diarrhea, but didn’t smell bad and it seemed to work for him.
Basically you’re going to need a ton of liquids. There are three sources of muscle cramps: not enough electrolytes, too many electrolytes, and muscle overuse. We can’t deal with the last one, but if you start cramping start throwing back water and/or liquids with electrolytes to try to solve the balance. If you’ve had a ton of water but no salts or electrolytes, then go for the Gatorade. If you’ve had a ton of salt, you might be just pure dehydrated, so throw back the water.
This is obviously not a scientific explanation for everything because I don’t have the time nor care to go into that much detail, but these rules-of-thumb will generally get you through hell.
Oh, and since I love leaving the most important point to the end… hydrate starting 3 days before the comp. If you aren’t drinking one to two gallons of liquid every day starting Monday leading up to the comp, then you’re doing it wrong. I’ve made this mistake in past years, including one where I started dehydrated and got muscle cramps in the first 30 minutes. It took me six hours to recover mid- competition because I was still having to climb. Miserable 6 hours.
Coffee and Caffeine
Also, avoid bringing coffee, it’s a diuretic and will make you want to poop. Go for 5-hour energy or some other form of caffeine. Personally, caffeine is a depressant to me so if I had some I’d fall asleep, but for those who it works on, save some for the night to perk you up. And don’t bring random stuff unless you’ve tried it out previously. Good luck!
Camping in Hell
So I’ve never camped during 24HHH. I can’t help you there, good luck.
No, I’m not kidding. I find a source of a bed, air conditioning, a private shower, a perfect porcelain throne, and a bed. Yes, I said bed twice. I realized a long time ago that it’s worth trying to find a motel/cabin/B&B nearby and utilize the crap out of it. It’s great to be able to lay all of your gear on the ground and not have it actually be on the ground. It’s fantastic to be able to poop independently of everyone else’s bowel+12/24/36 schedule. Air conditioning is a godsend, especially this year when it was crazy hot.
You don’t have to do what I do, it’s expensive to show up Sunday before the competition and pay for 7 days of accommodations, but I take 24HHH more seriously than most of the rest of my life, so that should explain it. Either way, if you do decide to do this, there are always lots of rooms available in Jasper or Harrison. I realize they are short drives away from the ranch, but the travel time seems to be worth it always.
Clothing and Costumes
If you're unsure
First timers: wear something comfortable you can climb, poop, and relax in for 12/24/36 hours. Avoid elastics and tight spots (for example swimsuits).
Be a badass
If you truly want a costume, there are no rules. Nudity is allowed. Body paint is encouraged. People win every year for different reasons. I’ve seen feathers, fist-shaped dildos, bondage gear, lingerie, Viking warriors, animals, never-nudes. Bring the variety. Be smart and you might win best-costume. But you have to wear it the entire time to qualify! If you’re a female, please for my sake, wear as little as possible. Or even less than that. You’ll be famous.
Some people are worried about the sun, others aren’t. This 11th year in all the heat, we wore just underwear and nothing else. We didn’t put on bug spray nor did we use sunblock. Neither of us got even a hint of sunburn the entire time. Your mileage may vary, but in general I’ve never worn sunscreen and never had a problem with sunburn ever. Just in case you’re concerned. Here’s a photo of what we wore for 36 hours of climbing (Well, the first 12, for the 24 we added bowties).
I must admit though, for 3 years I wore surgical scrubs for the entire competition. It was wonderful. In other years I’ve worn really light shorts and a tank top. It really comes down to wearing what you’re most comfortable in. Keep in mind you’ll have it on for 24 hours and you’re definitely going to get it dirty, muddy, and it will probably have holes in it by the end.
Follow this guide at your own risk. I approach 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell each year with the knowledge and certainty that I will die at the Ranch. I don’t mean that figuratively, I mean it literally. The techniques and information in this guide is liable and likely to actually kill you. Follow any advice or reasoning here within at your own risk and I am not responsible for your behavior or actions as a result of doing this. Accidents happen, rocks break, ropes tear, quickdraws fail, worn carabiners snap. If anything in here seems unsafe to you, then do whatever you need to in order to be safe. Your margin of safety is entirely different than mine. This guide is designed for moving as fast as literally possible while maintaining the basic-needs of rule-following and avoiding unnecessary risk. Some things we do are extremely risky, but we have thought through all angles to maximize safety outside objective risks. For your own safety, don’t try this at home, and please don’t actually climb like we do, unless you’re willing to actually die for the sake of 5 minutes saved. I accept no liability and this advice is entirely theoretical. Any nonconstructive arguments you want to make about this document will be kindly and thoroughly ignored.
Table of Contents
- Logistics and Equipment
- The Circles of Hell
- Before Arrival (Week before Hell)
- Night Before the 12 (Wednesday Night)
- Morning of the 12 (Thursday Morning)
- Climbing the 12 (Thursday)
- Night of the 12 and before the 24 (Thursday Night)
- Morning of the 24 (Friday Morning)
- Climbing the 24 (Friday Morning to Saturday Morning)
- Immediately after the 24 (Saturday Morning)
- Dinner/Awards/Party (Saturday Night)
- Last Breakfast (Sunday Morning)
- Videos and Stories about Hell